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The Hidizs AP80 just got support for Sony’s LDAC bluetooth audio codec!

The Hidizs AP80 just got support for Sony’s LDAC bluetooth audio codec!

UPDATE 12/29/2018: Video here: https://moisescardona.me/hidizs-ap80-ldac-video

Hi everyone,

Today morning, it came to my attention that there was a new firmware update for the Hidizs AP80 Digital Audio player. I downloaded and installed it, and surprise! We have LDAC support now! This means that it can be used as an LDAC bluetooth receiver and should also work as a transmitted, altough I haven’t tested this mode yet.

To test the Hidizs AP80 LDAC functionality, I tried using my phone but for some reason it doesn’t work on either the HiBy R3 nor on the AP80. This may be a bug on the Samsung Android Pie beta software, or some sort of incompatibility in HiBy OS. Since this didn’t worked, I then proceeded to use my HiBy R3 as a transmitter and the Hidizs AP80 as as receiver. I logged in into Tidal in the R3 and tested the LDAC codec. It worked! Not only it worked, but the Sample Rate was also adjusted accordingly, meaning that standard 44.1Khz Tidal tracks will be transmitted and received at that very same sample rate. I also tested playing back one of a few Tidal albums that the R3 seems to decode in MQA and the sample rate again was adjusted to 88.2Khz

Here, you can see the HiBy R3 streaming a standard album and transmitting it via LDAC to the Hidizs AP80:

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
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For my next test, I decided to plug in my R3 to my laptop and use Foobar2000 and Tidal in WASAPI mode. This makes the Hiby R3 a USB DAC -> Bluetooth transmitter. This also worked nicely:

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
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A post shared by Moises Cardona (@moisesmcardona) on

Conclusion

I now have the perfect LDAC transmitter and receiver. There’s little delay, but the sound quality is better than using the standard SBC codec. Also it’s worth noting that when I used the HiBy R3 as a USB DAC and LDAC bluetooth transmitter in WASAPI mode, the sample rate was adjusted not only in the R3 but also in the Hidizs AP80, meaning if I’m using a sample rate of 44.1Khz in the PC, the same sample rate will be used in the Hiby R3 and Hidizs AP80. This is very convenient because there will be no downsampling performed. Also, the fact that the Hidizs AP80 also supports bidirectional USB, I could attach another DAC or Amp like the Hidizs DH1000 and enjoy high quality bluetooth sound.

Using the Hidizs AP80 as a Micro SD reader

Using the Hidizs AP80 as a Micro SD reader

Hi everyone,

It comes a time when I have to update my Windows devices manually because sometimes, on my Intel Atom machines, Windows Update fails to install a Windows Insider build. I know I’m not the only one who have had this happened. One thing one can do to solve this is to go ahead and download a Windows Insider ISO and then create a bootable micro SD card, with tools like Rufus. Now, the bootable part is not important, as I’m upgrading my Windows install rather than doing a clean install.

I used an 8gb MicroSD card that I have and used Rufus on my AMD Ryzen desktop machine. I then used my Hidizs AP80 in USB Storage mode to make the microSD card appear in the PC and format and prepare the card with the ISO. Once that was ready, I used the Hidizs USB-C to Micro USB cable that came with my Hidizs DH1000 (the Hidizs AP80 also comes with this cable) to connect the USB-C port of the AP80 to the Micro USB port of the tablet. From there, I was able to go to “This PC” -> The Micro SD card and launch the Windows 10 setup to begin upgrading my tablet. It is really nice that the Hiby OS that this DAP use has different modes when it comes to USB, because you can either use it as a Storage device or as a DAC.

Here’s the image where I have my AP80 connected to my tablet:

Photos of the Hidizs DH1000 DAC/AMP Circuit Board (Teardown)

Photos of the Hidizs DH1000 DAC/AMP Circuit Board (Teardown)

Hi everyone,

Today, I’d like to show you some pictures of the Hidizs DH1000 Circuit Board.

We need to take out the top and bottom glass first. You can remove the top glass if you want to see the main chips, and you can remove the bottom glass to take a look at the battery. Please note that the glasses are completely glued, not just the borders, so you’ll need something that you can use to carefully remove the glue behind:

Once the glass is removed, there’s a metal shield protecting the circuit board. Removing it is as easy as taking off the 4 screws it has. Note that the surface is full of glue:

Once removed, the beauty of the circuit board awaits:

The main chip is a Hiby Music HBD150A:

The second chip is a SmartAction SA2000 chip. From there, it goes to the dual ESS ES9018K2M DAC’s (Digital Analog Converters):

Here’s a closer look to the dual ES9018K2M decoder chips as well as the dual amp chips:

On the other side, there’s the battery. It can be detached but it seems to be glued, so it needs to be carefully removed:

Here I have the unit connected to my PC using both USB’s and a headphone connected:

And here’s the battery side:

It’s difficult to know if the unit is charging or not, because my unit has a fault in which the LED is always turned on, and the charging is extremely slow. Also, for now, the only way to power it is to disconnect the battery, press and keep pressed the power button, then quicly connect the Power USB cable without having the data cable connected. This will make the unit turn on. Once it’s on, the battery can be connected and once it is connected, the data cable can be connected. Otherwise, the unit will turn off almost immediately, maybe because it doesn’t have enough power to be kept on, which is why the battery needs to be connected.

I wonder if Hidizs will release an updated version (maybe a Hidizs DH2000?) which fixes this battery defect which some users have been facing. It’s just a matter of time to see what amplifier they do next, as this one sounds very good and I enjoy the sound. It’s unfortunate that it has such a battery problem. Anyway, I’ll keep using this product, again, because I enjoy the sound 🙂

Hope you enjoyed the photos and if you did, don’t forget to follow me on Instagram!

Photos of the Hidizs AP80

Photos of the Hidizs AP80

Hi everyone,

Today, I’d like to show you some photos of the Hidizs AP80. I really enjoy this Digital Audio Player since it produces a very good sound and it’s perfect for offline playback. Also, the FM radio sometimes comes in handy to listen to local stations.

Here’s some pictures of it:

Here’s the AP80 connected to the Google USB-C to 3.5mm dongle. It works straight out of the box. Simply connect it and enjoy the music. It also allows you to control the AP80 by using the headset buttons:

In this picture, you can see the FM Radio feature of the AP80. It needs to have a headphone connected to it since it uses it as an antenna:

Finally, here you can see a size comparison between the Hidizs AP80, Hiby R3 and Hidizs DH1000, from right to left:

I hope you enjoyed the photos and if you did, don’t forget to follow me on Instagram!

Unboxing the Hidizs AP80 Digital Audio Player

Unboxing the Hidizs AP80 Digital Audio Player

Hi everyone,

Yesterday, I received the Hidizs AP80 Digital Audio Player from their kickstarter campaign. After that, I received a tracking number which is of no use because of course, I already have the unit here and it shows as “Delivered”, so it came as a surprise and was shipped by Amazon since they fullfill US orders from them.

So, here’s my unboxing video that I recorded of this tiny (smaller than I expected) audio player. Enjoy!


The Hidizs EX-01

The Hidizs EX-01

Hi everyone,

Today, I’ll show you the Hidizs EX-01 in-ear headphone:

We can see it has a frequency response of 20-20K. Also we can see that the driver size is 8mm.

I haven’t taken the wrapping of it, so here’s the pictures with the wrap taken off:

When I opened it, we can see some promotion material:

Hidizs EX-01 5

And then we can see the headphones itself:

Hidizs EX-01 6

When we take them out, this is how it looks:

Hidizs EX-01 7

Sound

How does it sounds? For me, it, focuses on bass and mid bass, therefore, the sound will be bassy, but not boomy enough to distort the audio. Treble is also there, but is not extended. The voices sounds a bit bassy too, but they are clear, which means Hidizs did a great job with the tuning to not distort it. Since the focus seems to be on bass, the mids and treble seems to be a bit recessed. Sound stage seems wide, but you’ll be hearing more bass than any other instruments. Even when these may have a bassy sound, it’s still clear and you can still enjoy your music.

If you’d like an In-Ear headphone focused on bass, these may be for you.

Hidizs also offers the EP-03 and the Seeds earphones which I do no have yet to compare.

Hidizs also makes DAPs (Digital Audio Players) and DACs (Digital-Analog Converters). I have the Hidizs DH1000 DAC which provides a very natural sound and an enjoyable sound, and the Hidizs AP80, which also sounds awesome.

Hidizs is known for making high quality audio devices.

The UGREEN USB to Micro USB Y Cable

The UGREEN USB to Micro USB Y Cable

Hi everyone,

Today, I received the UGREEN USB to Micro USB Y cable and I’m going to show it to you and also my use of it.

The UGREEN USB to Micro USB Y cable is a USB cable that splits into 2, and yes, you can use it to connect 2 devices simultaneously and transfer data to them because the cable acts as a USB Hub. This is the cable:

UGREEN Y Cable 1
The UGREEN Y Cable

Taken out of the package:

UGREEN Y Cable 2
UGREEN Y Cable taken out of the package

Now, this is where I show you my usage of it. As you may know from an earlier post, I own a Hidizs DH1000 Digital-Analog Converter and Amp. This Amp that I have has a problem with charging, and that’s where this cable comes handy. The DH1000 has 2 USB ports, One is for data and the other is for charging. This cable is the perfect solution to keep it powered on while enjoying music.

Here’s a picture of the cable connected to the DAC/Amp turned off and charging:

UGREEN Y Cable 3
UGREEN Y Cable connected to the Hidizs DH1000

Now, it’s important to know that this cable consumes around 0.05 to 0.08A (amps), so keep that in mind. This is due to its integrated Hub.

With the Hidizs DH1000 turned on, it consumes around 0.20A:

UGREEN Y Cable 4
UGREEN Y Cable connected to the Hidizs DH1000 and turned on

It works wonderful!

Here it is connected directly to a USB port of my laptop:

UGREEN Y Cable 5
UGREEN Y Cable connected to my Lenovo Legion Y720 laptop and the Hidizs DH1000

And of course, it’s compatible with my Hiby R3. Notice the USB logo on the top left, meaning it has a USB DAC connected to it:

UGREEN Y Cable connected to the Hiby R3 and the Hidizs DH1000
UGREEN Y Cable connected to the Hiby R3 and the Hidizs DH1000

And there you have it. The cable does the purpose it’s meant to do. It’s working fine with my amp, and that’s a wonderful thing. However, when it’s connected to the Hiby R3, the DAP’s (Digital Audio Player, the R3) battery will discharge more quickly. Still, it’s a very nice cable for short listening sessions.

You can buy this cable on Amazon at the following link:

Hidizs DH1000 using a USB Meter to simulate a Y cable

Hidizs DH1000 using a USB Meter to simulate a Y cable

Hi everyone,

As you may have seen from my previous posts, I’ve been developing GUI’s for FLAC and Opus, which are 2 great audio formats. This, of course, means I listen to music, and to enjoy them, I use my Hidizs DH1000 USB DAC/Amp. The sound it produces is awesome, but I’ve been having issues lately due to it charging very slow.

Because the unit charges very slow, at just 0.09A according to my meter, I needed to figure out a way I can keep using my DH1000 without sending the unit back to China for replacement. Of course, this is easy, because the unit features 2 USB, you can just connect 2 MicroUSB cables and have the problem solved. This would send power to the unit while you enjoy music, but what if you only have one USB socket available? Yes, you can use a USB hub, but I don’t think it’s recommended to use one because it would have a Hub in the middle and not a direct connection to the DAC, and also you’ll have several cables around.

To do a simple test, I purchased the PortaPow USB Meter which features 2 USB-A ports. One is for charging only and the other allows data transfer and charge, so the connection I’m using is the data port to the DH1000 data port and the No Data + SmartCharge port to the DH1000 microUSB charge port:

Using the PortaPow to provide Data and Charging to the Hidizs DH1000

With the meter, I could see that the unit is working and it is also drawing power from the USB port, which is what I initially wanted.

I also tested this with my Hiby R3 as you can see below:

Using the PortaPow with the Hiby R3

The Voltage seems to be below 5V, but it’s working fine. The downside is that the R3 battery drains faster, but for short-term music listening, this is fine.

My next step is to find a good USB-A to Micro USB Y Cable that provides charging and data to keep using my DH1000 for as long as possible.

I hope you enjoyed this post and found it useful. I know there’s some of you that have the DH1000 Blue Light issue, and that’s why I also have the rubber band that came with my unit in the DH1000, because I also have that issue. But hey, at least the DH1000 is still working great!

See ya in my next post!

The Hidizs DH1000 DAC / AMP

The Hidizs DH1000 DAC / AMP

Hi everyone,

In this post, I’d like to talk about the Hidizs DH1000 which is a Digital to Analog converter and an Amp for headphones.

This device is a USB digital to analog converter (DAC) that can improve the sound quality of the music thanks to its advanced dual ES9018K2M DAC chips as well as its dual Amp chips. It features a balanced 2.5mm headphone jack as well as the standard 3.5mm headphone jack and works with any device that supports USB Audio, be it a PC, Mac, Android, or a music player that supports USB DACs.

As you may have seen in my previous posts from several months ago, I like to listen to music a lot, so I decided to pledge to this product originally launched in Kickstarter.

Here are some pictures of the DAC:

Hidizs DH1000 1

Plugged via MicroUSB to my PC
Hidizs DH1000 2
Plugged to a USB 2.0 hub and also to a charger
Hidizs DH1000 3
Plugged to the Hiby R3

The device features dual USB ports for simultaneous music playing and charging. It has to be noted that this is not only for music but for anything audio-related since it is detected as USB Audio Class 2.0 device in Windows as well as an audio output in Android. For iOS devices, you must use the Hiby music app.

More photos:

The other device shown alongside the Hidizs DH1000 is the new Hiby R3 player, which I’ll show you in another post.

How’s the sound quality?

Way better than using the headphones plugged into my phone or other audio devices. For me, everything sounds very detailed and impressive. You can head the vocals very clearly, be it a male or a female singer. The treble also sounds very nice, and the bass is perfect. Of course, everyone will have different opinions on audio quality, but for me, this sounds very authentic and provides an awesome sound.

One thing that I also like about this DAC is that the volume buttons are independent of the source device. This means you can change the Hidizs DH1000 volume and it will not change the volume of the device it is connected. I usually just set the device to output audio at 100% and then control the volume in the DH1000 DAC.

Where did I heard about this product?

Kickstarter. I always browse the “Technology” category in Kickstarted and almost every month I find something I like. That’s where I found this DAC there:

Hidizs DH1000 12

Check out more of the product here.

Unboxing video

To conclude this post, here’s the unboxing video that I recorded which shows the DAC, the box, and its content. Enjoy!

In the next few days, I’ll share with you the unboxing video and photos of the Hiby R3, an awesome portable music player filled with lots of features.

See ya next time!