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Did I just received my UP AI Plus that I backed on Kickstarter?

Did I just received my UP AI Plus that I backed on Kickstarter?

Hi everyone,

Today, I got a package with Up Tape in it:

Up Board Package
Up Board Package

I’ve been expecting to receive my UP AI Plus that I backed on Kickstarter last year. The project got several delays due to Intel CPU shortages, but last week, I received a tracking number from AAEON, which makes the UP Board and this just popped up today. It initially should have been delivered on Thursday.

I’ll be opening the box and seeing if this is definitely the UP AI Plus and I’ll share the photos with you soon!

Battery Replacement for HP Stream 7 and 8 tablets done!

Battery Replacement for HP Stream 7 and 8 tablets done!

Hi everyone,

Today, I’ll share this picture of what I did during these weeks:

Cameron Sino HP Stream Battery Replacement

That’s right! I’ve replaced the batteries of both my old HP Stream 7 and HP Stream 8 batteries with these Cameron Sino batteries designed for the HP Stream 7 but that also works with the HP Stream 8. You can see that there is plenty of additional space in the HP Stream 8 and that I applied a tape to secure the battery in place.

Right now, the tablets are back at crunching BOINC Tasks and helping humanity toward scientific research and also they are finding aliens (Really, they are!).

During this week, I’ll be sharing the Unboxing video of this battery in both English and Spanish, so stay tuned!

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X shipped!

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X shipped!

Hi everyone,

This is another Status Update regarding my soon-to-arrive AMD Ryzen 7 2700X processor.

It has been shipped yesterday night, and it is expected to arrive tomorrow 😁

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Shipped

I can’t wait to install this CPU. Today afternoon, I will apply the newest BIOS to the motherboard to have it ready for the brand-new CPU.

Stay tuned for more about this new CPU, unboxing, and installation!

AMD Ryzen 2700X is coming!

AMD Ryzen 2700X is coming!

Hi everyone,

I have preordered the AMD Ryzen 7 2700X CPU to upgrade my AMD 1700 build. This will provide me a better performance increase as I’m running the CPU at stock speeds, up to 3.20Ghz.

The AMD Ryzen 7 2700X CPU runs at 3.7Ghz base speeds with Precision Boost going up to 4.3Ghz. It is a very nice speed boost compared to my 1700 CPU and considering I was overclocking it to 3.6Ghz, but I had to reverse it because of stability issues.

As far as the motherboard, new X370 boards are expensive, at $200+, so I’ll keep using my B350M which cost only $70 dollars when it was released. If new B450 boards are released, then I may consider upgrading it. The benefit of getting a new one is that I will then be able to run 2 AMD Ryzen machines for a total of up to 16 Zen cores and 32 total threads.

AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

Now, I don’t expect to receive this on Friday, but who knows! Last year this was a total pain. First, I received my AMD 1700 CPU and some weeks later I received the motherboard. I hope this time the CPU actually gets released the 19 and Amazon has enough stock to ship it to me.

I’ll keep you all updated!

R.I.P 2x4GB DDR3 RAM

R.I.P 2x4GB DDR3 RAM

Hi everyone,

It is very unfortunate to say that these RAM sticks are dead:

2x4GB DDR3 SODIMM RAM Dead

They were an essential part of my laptop for some time now but ultimately decided to fail on me. I always put my laptop to sleep, but when I reached home, the machine would try to boot and then suddenly shut down, and restart on its own trying to boot. I took out the RAM sticks and tested one at a time, but it was a no go. Fortunately, I have more RAM sticks laying around so I installed another 2 spare 4GB RAM sticks and the machine booted! Not only did it booted but I think the boot was faster. No idea why, because both the new and old RAMs are 1600Mhz/s and are of the same capacity, although different brands.

So, now my laptop is usable again 🙂

The JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter

The JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter

Hi everyone,

Some time ago, I purchased the JET-5608AK SODIMM to DIMM Adapter. What this does is convert a SODIMM RAM module into a DIMM module. SODIMM is the RAM used on laptops, while DIMMs are the RAM used in Desktop computers.

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 1

Unboxing:

The product came in a very simple box:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 2

And opening it shows just the SODIMM to DIMM adapter very well protected:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 3

The front of the device can be seen at the start of this posts but here it is again:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 1

And the back of it:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 4

Product usage:

I’m going to use this with an 8GB Samsung SODIMM DDR4 module from my laptop:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 5

This is the front of it with the RAM inserted:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 6

And the back:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 7

Inserting the module in the machine:

I’m going to use this module with an ASUS B350M-A motherboard and an AMD Ryzen 7 1700 CPU. I currently have 32GB of RAM in it. Using this would raise it to 40GB as I’m using an 8GB Samsung DDR4 SODIMM module:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 8

But because some machines have compatibility issues, I’m placing the RAM alone:

JET-5608AK DDR4 SODIMM to DIMM Adapter - 9

But…

It didn’t work.

That’s right. This module is NOT compatible with this motherboard or CPU, it seems. Even when placed alone or with the other RAM modules, the machine refused to boot. This could very well be the BIOS or can be the CPU itself not supporting SODIMM modules. After all, this CPU was released before the mobile AMD Ryzen CPUs were released.

Some people have got this adapter to work on their machines. You can read one of such reviews in Newegg, and there is a Reddit discussion of it over here.

Anyway, the adapter is not expensive and it was worth getting it to see if it would actually work. It would have been nice to use spare DDR4 SODIMM modules with my desktop.

Hope you enjoyed reading this post and be sure to follow me for more tech stuff!

All photos were taken using a Samsung Galaxy S9+.

Let’s put my laptop fan to work at maximum speed!

Let’s put my laptop fan to work at maximum speed!

Hi everyone,

In this post, today I’ll share you this method that will surely end with your laptop overheating issues.

As you may know, CPU fans comes normally with 3 or 4 pins. 3-pin fans are Volage-controlled, where the variance in voltage changes the CPU fan speed. The 3rd cable sends rotational speed information to the computer and depending on the heat and the BIOS, it will either increase or decrease the fan to a specified RPM. This is very dependent on the machine.

4-pin fans are PWM-controlled. This means the voltage is constant. The 3rd cable again is the cable that sends rotational RPM information to the PC, while the 4th cable is the one where the PC sends the signal to the fan to change their speed.

The laptop we will be seeing today is the Lenovo Y510p. It is a 2013 model (and we are in 2018 now. Time flies!). This laptop fan is a 4-pin fan but the connector is propietary, meaning that the cables aren’t in order.

The problem with the laptop is that the BIOS doesn’t allows setting up the fan speed and neither does it provide a “Turbo” mode, something that some gaming laptops have to allow the fan to spin at the maximum speed and prevent overheating.

The laptop does has a tool that provides a function called “Dust Removal”. With this function, the fan indeed runs at maximum speed, but for some seconds. It then reduces the speed and then goes to maximum speed again and this process continues, but once the “cleaning” process finishes, the fan speed is reduced. Therefore, even if the CPU is hot, the fan isn’t spinning to its maximum speed.

The solution to this is to cut the PWM signal cable. This allows the fan to rotate to its maximum speed as it will not be receiving a PWM signal from the motherboard. That’s why you can also use a 4-pin fan into a 3-pin connector and it will run at its maximum speed, because without a signal coming from the PC to the fan, the fan will spin at the fastest speed given that the voltage is constant.

Here’s the process to be able to use the fan at its maximum speed:

The first step is to flip the laptop and remove the back cover. Note that previously I’ve modded the case to allow more airflow into the laptop:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 1

Here’s the cover removed:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 2

Now, focus at the fan:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 3

We need to disconnect the fan cable from the motherboard. Taking it out is very easy. We just need to carefully pull the cable:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 4

Here is the disconnected cable:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 5

We need to cut the brown cable:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 6

Now, we will connect it again to the motherboard:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 7

Done:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 8

And… It works!!!:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 9

CPU at 100% percent:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 10

GPU at 100% percent:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 11

And, here’s BOINC running:

Lenovo Y510p fan - 12

Well, actually, the CPU starts at almost 3.40Ghz, but will gradually reduce to at least 2.60Ghz (At least that’s what it does for me) when the Nvidia GPU is running 100%. Still, I haven’t seen the CPU running at less than 2.40Ghz this way.

Also, be sure to use ThrottleStop or it will stay at 2.40Ghz. ThrottleStop will allow the laptop to use the Turbo Boost frecuencies.

That’s all. I hope you enjoyed this post!

Reviving a Crucial M4 mSATA SSD

Reviving a Crucial M4 mSATA SSD

Hi everyone,

In this post, I’d like to tell you how I revived my Crucial M4 mSATA SSD drive.

So, it seems that sometimes, when a power failure happens, the drive will not be detected in the PC BIOS. I thought the drive was dead, but luckily, I found these instructions at Crucial forum and I immediately proceeded to follow them.

The result? The SSD was REVIVED!

Here’s my Desktop System:

Crucial M4 128GB SSD 1

The steps I performed where the following:

  1. With the mSATA drive inserted, Power On the machine and enter the BIOS for 20 minutes.
  2. Power Off the PC and remove the mSATA SSD for 30 seconds, then plug it again.
  3. I should have repeated Steps 1 and 2, according to the forum post, but then, when I powered on the machine and entered the BIOS, the drive was detected again. At this point, I rebooted the machine and I could load the OS. Everything was intact and I could use it again.

Phew!!! No data loss occurred, but this is why it is very important to backup files. You never know when an SSD is going to fail, even if it’s in perfect conditions.

Do you see the mSATA drive? No? Here it is:

Crucial M4 128GB SSD 2

That’s all!

Tablets placed in their new place crunching BOINC Tasks!

Tablets placed in their new place crunching BOINC Tasks!

Hi everyone,

Yesterday, I showed you my Raspberry/Orange Pi and other SBCs placed in their new place and crunching tasks

Today, I show you my tablets also crunching tasks in their new place as well. They are all crunching BOINC projects. The ones with the heatsinks are Intel-based tablets that overheat. Placing the heatsink and the fan cools them down:

Tablets 1

That’s all!

Raspberry/Orange Pi’s, PINE 64 and Other SBCs are back at crunching tasks!

Raspberry/Orange Pi’s, PINE 64 and Other SBCs are back at crunching tasks!

Hi everyone,

Today has been a busy day, as I’ve been configuring back my Raspberry and Orange Pi’s as well as my PINE 64 to crunch BOINC Distributed Computing tasks again. Also, I moved some of the Intel SBCs to their new place as you can see in the image below:

SBC 1

These SBCs has been offline since the last days of July and now I’ve put them up to work and contribute again.

They are mostly running [email protected] tasks. You can see the tasks here:

SBC 1

That’s all for today!