I got this game because I loved playing The Tower SP back on the days of the Gameboy Advance:
Then came the Nintendo DS and it got The Tower DS, but only in Japan. Coming forward to the present day, we got Project Highrise, which was released for several platforms.
Project Highrise is basically an adaption of the original SimTower game, of which both The Tower SP and The Tower DS were also based of. This means that we get the SimTower experience on the Nintendo Switch.
The box is wonderfully designed with several buildings. The back of it has some screenshots which looks very familiar to those who played the previously mentioned games.
Inside it’s a different story. Just the limited warranty as well as technical support information. We also have the came cart on the other side.
Like the game box, the cart design has some buildings. Finally, this is the game design when inserted in the Nintendo Switch:
I’ll definitely be playing this game and build an awesome tower.
You can buy this game on Amazon at the following link:
Today, I’ll show you the 14TB Western Digital Easystore Hard Disk Drive. This is an external hard drive sold at Best Buy in the United State, and sometimes they sell them at a special price.
The drive comes with a USB 3.0 conection. It has plenty of space to store our precious data as well as allowing us to store backup copies of it. These hard drives are filled with helium which makes them not get too hot when we are using them.
The box comes with a simple presentation, usual of hard disk drives boxes:
When we open it, we see the hard drive:
On the side, we see the cables and the manual:
I connected the drive on Windows which recognized it as a 12.7TB drive. I then went ahead and ran a benchmark using the CystalDiskMark utility. It reported over 200MB+ read/write speed:
Here’s a video of the benchmark, altough I used another drive and it reported over 170MB+. The difference was that this other 14TB drive already had data in it:
With 12.7TB reported on windows, this drive allows us to store huge amounts of data and store backups. It is very fast and comes with typical Western Digital quality. I expect this drive to hold still for a lot of years, as my previous Western Digital drives are still operating excellent.
You can buy this hard disk drive on Best Buy here.
It’s been actually more than a week with my new Tempotec Sonata iDSD Plus, and my experience with this new unit has been very positive.
First of all, I haven’t faced the Blue LED problem again. As I wrote in my teardown article, they changed some components inside that may prevent this problem from happening again, but it also seems to have introduced a problem where the unit main LED turns orange. This happens rarely, and the unit works once the LED turns green again.
The second thing is that the charging speed is back to normal as well. My previous unit was having a slow charge rate of just 0.06A. Here, you can see it’s drawing a full amp, as I also have the unit turned on:
Once the unit finishes charging, the LED turns off, as expected:
The device not only is working great in my Windows PC, with Tidal and Foobar, both using WASAPI for a bit-perfect playback experience, but it’s also working great with my Hiby R3:
The Hiby R3 also has an excellent sound, but I use my Tempotec Sonata iDSD as the sound is more open to my ears, and sounds more natural too.
It’s been several days with the DAC, and I’m really pleased with it. I’m listening to Tidal Masters, which are actually MQA-encoded music files and they sound excellent with this DAC, as a sample rate of either 24-bit/88.2Khz or 24-bit/96Khz, depending on the track being used:
I hope this DAC work fine for a lifetime, as it’s the most enjoyable sound I’ve ever heard.
The best way to open it is to use a sharp object to very careful try to detach the glass. To my surprise, this new unit wasn’t glued entirely. It felt as if the glass was just placed on it, with some simple glued tape behind.
What I can see from it is a thin tape that covers that metal shield which was holding the glass. Now that the glass is removed, I can remove the 4 screws holding the metal plate to the DAC:
It’s pretty much identical to the previous Tempotec iDSD Plus unit, except that a quick look reveals that there’s no capacitor at the C46 mark.
In the above picture, you can see that the old unit (the unit below) has a capacitor in the C46 mark. Let’s tale a closer look:
It’s missing in the new unit, as can be seen in the photo above.
And above you can see it in the previous unit.
Taking a look at the actual DAC printed circuit board, it also look pretty much identical. I didn’t noticed any difference at first sight, but it does has an IC changed.
The D4 diode was changed. Above you can see the diode from the new unit, which seems to have been replaced by hand, as it’s not placed straight there. Below, you can see the IC used in the previous unit:
You can see that one is straight.
It seems that these 2 changes have fixed the Blue LED problem for the new units, and that’s great! They didn’t did a new board revision, and instead they just switched the D4 IC and removed the C46 capacitor. Both boards have the same V1.1 revision written in it.
The battery is the same. Ironically, they also have the same dates. I wonder if Tempotec had to fix old units by hand, sealing it, and selling them as new, or if these are returned units which have been refurbished. Either case, the new Tempotec iDSD Plus works fine, charges fine, and has an excellent sound.
I did, however, noticed that the new unit sometimes have both Green and Red LED turned on simultaneously, making it seem to be orange. The unit doesn’t work at all when this happens.
It seems to work again after I charge the unit a bit. It makes me wonder if it may have to do with the battery voltage when it gets low. While this has been happening rarely, it may represent another underlying problem with this DAC.
I’ll, of course, keep using this DAC because it produces an awesome sound that I really like, and I’ll soon be receiving the newest Hidizs Mermaid MS1 and MS4 In-Ear Monitors which I’d love to use with this DAC.
UPDATE 3/25/2019: Added closer pictures of the C46 capacitor.
Shucking the Western Digital WD Elements 10TB External Hard Disk Drive
We need to use a sharp object and slide it toward the edges to take off the clips from the case. Then, we’ll slide it to the right carefully:
We’ll keep sliding it right until it gets out:
The drive inside my WD Elements is a WD100EMAZ:
Now, we need to take out the Hard Disk Drive from the case. This is easy, because it is attached to the case using some rubbers. We just need to carefully push the hard drive to get it out:
Now, we need to take out the SATA to USB controller screw:
And here we finally have the shucked drive:
This drive didn’t required any hack to install it in my desktop machine, unlike my 8TB drive which needed to be plugged with a MOLEX to SATA adapter so that it doesn’t receive the 3.3V. I plugged this 10TB drive directly using a SATA power cable from my EVGA 600W PSU:
Windows recognized the drive immediately:
10TB of space! (Actually, 9.1TB)
I ran CrystalDiskMark and this is the result:
It’s fast, and it’s working awesome in my machine.
With this I conclude this quick and simple post.
Photos of the Hidizs DH1000 DAC/AMP Circuit Board (Teardown)
Today, I’d like to show you some pictures of the Hidizs DH1000 Circuit Board.
We need to take out the top and bottom glass first. You can remove the top glass if you want to see the main chips, and you can remove the bottom glass to take a look at the battery. Please note that the glasses are completely glued, not just the borders, so you’ll need something that you can use to carefully remove the glue behind:
Once the glass is removed, there’s a metal shield protecting the circuit board. Removing it is as easy as taking off the 4 screws it has. Note that the surface is full of glue:
Once removed, the beauty of the circuit board awaits:
The main chip is a Hiby Music HBD150A:
The second chip is a SmartAction SA2000 chip. From there, it goes to the dual ESS ES9018K2M DACs (Digital Analog Converters):
Here’s a closer look to the dual ES9018K2M decoder chips as well as the dual amp chips:
On the other side, there’s the battery. It can be detached but it seems to be glued, so it needs to be carefully removed:
Here I have the unit connected to my PC using both USB’s and a headphone connected:
And here’s the battery side:
It’s difficult to know if the unit is charging or not, because my unit has a fault in which the LED is always turned on, and the charging is extremely slow. Also, for now, the only way to power it is to disconnect the battery, press and keep pressed the power button, then quickly connect the Power USB cable without having the data cable connected. This will make the unit turn on. Once it’s on, the battery can be connected and once it is connected, the data cable can be connected. Otherwise, the unit will turn off almost immediately, maybe because it doesn’t have enough power to be kept on, which is why the battery needs to be connected.
I wonder if Hidizs will release an updated version (maybe a Hidizs DH2000?) which fixes this battery defect which some users have been facing. It’s just a matter of time to see what amplifier they do next, as this one sounds very good and I enjoy the sound. It’s unfortunate that it has such a battery problem. Anyway, I’ll keep using this product, again, because I enjoy the sound 🙂
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