Today, I’ll show you the 14TB Western Digital Easystore Hard Disk Drive. This is an external hard drive sold at Best Buy in the United State, and sometimes they sell them at a special price.
The drive comes with a USB 3.0 conection. It has plenty of space to store our precious data as well as allowing us to store backup copies of it. These hard drives are filled with helium which makes them not get too hot when we are using them.
The box comes with a simple presentation, usual of hard disk drives boxes:
When we open it, we see the hard drive:
On the side, we see the cables and the manual:
I connected the drive on Windows which recognized it as a 12.7TB drive. I then went ahead and ran a benchmark using the CystalDiskMark utility. It reported over 200MB+ read/write speed:
Here’s a video of the benchmark, altough I used another drive and it reported over 170MB+. The difference was that this other 14TB drive already had data in it:
With 12.7TB reported on windows, this drive allows us to store huge amounts of data and store backups. It is very fast and comes with typical Western Digital quality. I expect this drive to hold still for a lot of years, as my previous Western Digital drives are still operating excellent.
You can buy this hard disk drive on Best Buy here.
It’s been actually more than a week with my new Tempotec Sonata iDSD Plus, and my experience with this new unit has been very positive.
First of all, I haven’t faced the Blue LED problem again. As I wrote in my teardown article, they changed some components inside that may prevent this problem from happening again, but it also seems to have introduced a problem where the unit main LED turns orange. This happens rarely, and the unit works once the LED turns green again.
The second thing is that the charging speed is back to normal as well. My previous unit was having a slow charge rate of just 0.06A. Here, you can see it’s drawing a full amp, as I also have the unit turned on:
Once the unit finishes charging, the LED turns off, as expected:
The device not only is working great in my Windows PC, with Tidal and Foobar, both using WASAPI for a bit-perfect playback experience, but it’s also working great with my Hiby R3:
The Hiby R3 also has an excellent sound, but I use my Tempotec Sonata iDSD as the sound is more open to my ears, and sounds more natural too.
It’s been several days with the DAC, and I’m really pleased with it. I’m listening to Tidal Masters, which are actually MQA-encoded music files and they sound excellent with this DAC, as a sample rate of either 24-bit/88.2Khz or 24-bit/96Khz, depending on the track being used:
I hope this DAC work fine for a lifetime, as it’s the most enjoyable sound I’ve ever heard.
The best way to open it is to use a sharp object to very careful try to detach the glass. To my surprise, this new unit wasn’t glued entirely. It felt as if the glass was just placed on it, with some simple glued tape behind.
What I can see from it is a thin tape that covers that metal shield which was holding the glass. Now that the glass is removed, I can remove the 4 screws holding the metal plate to the DAC:
It’s pretty much identical to the previous Tempotec iDSD Plus unit, except that a quick look reveals that there’s no capacitor at the C46 mark.
In the above picture, you can see that the old unit (the unit below) has a capacitor in the C46 mark. Let’s tale a closer look:
It’s missing in the new unit, as can be seen in the photo above.
And above you can see it in the previous unit.
Taking a look at the actual DAC printed circuit board, it also look pretty much identical. I didn’t noticed any difference at first sight, but it does has an IC changed.
The D4 diode was changed. Above you can see the diode from the new unit, which seems to have been replaced by hand, as it’s not placed straight there. Below, you can see the IC used in the previous unit:
You can see that one is straight.
It seems that these 2 changes have fixed the Blue LED problem for the new units, and that’s great! They didn’t did a new board revision, and instead they just switched the D4 IC and removed the C46 capacitor. Both boards have the same V1.1 revision written in it.
The battery is the same. Ironically, they also have the same dates. I wonder if Tempotec had to fix old units by hand, sealing it, and selling them as new, or if these are returned units which have been refurbished. Either case, the new Tempotec iDSD Plus works fine, charges fine, and has an excellent sound.
I did, however, noticed that the new unit sometimes have both Green and Red LED turned on simultaneously, making it seem to be orange. The unit doesn’t work at all when this happens.
It seems to work again after I charge the unit a bit. It makes me wonder if it may have to do with the battery voltage when it gets low. While this has been happening rarely, it may represent another underlying problem with this DAC.
I’ll, of course, keep using this DAC because it produces an awesome sound that I really like, and I’ll soon be receiving the newest Hidizs Mermaid MS1 and MS4 In-Ear Monitors which I’d love to use with this DAC.
UPDATE 3/25/2019: Added closer pictures of the C46 capacitor.
Shucking the Western Digital WD Elements 10TB External Hard Disk Drive
We need to use a sharp object and slide it toward the edges to take off the clips from the case. Then, we’ll slide it to the right carefully:
We’ll keep sliding it right until it gets out:
The drive inside my WD Elements is a WD100EMAZ:
Now, we need to take out the Hard Disk Drive from the case. This is easy, because it is attached to the case using some rubbers. We just need to carefully push the hard drive to get it out:
Now, we need to take out the SATA to USB controller screw:
And here we finally have the shucked drive:
This drive didn’t required any hack to install it in my desktop machine, unlike my 8TB drive which needed to be plugged with a MOLEX to SATA adapter so that it doesn’t receive the 3.3V. I plugged this 10TB drive directly using a SATA power cable from my EVGA 600W PSU:
Windows recognized the drive immediately:
10TB of space! (Actually, 9.1TB)
I ran CrystalDiskMark and this is the result:
It’s fast, and it’s working awesome in my machine.
With this I conclude this quick and simple post.
Photos of the Hidizs DH1000 DAC/AMP Circuit Board (Teardown)
Today, I’d like to show you some pictures of the Hidizs DH1000 Circuit Board.
We need to take out the top and bottom glass first. You can remove the top glass if you want to see the main chips, and you can remove the bottom glass to take a look at the battery. Please note that the glasses are completely glued, not just the borders, so you’ll need something that you can use to carefully remove the glue behind:
It’s difficult to know if the unit is charging or not, because my unit has a fault in which the LED is always turned on, and the charging is extremely slow. Also, for now, the only way to power it is to disconnect the battery, press and keep pressed the power button, then quicly connect the Power USB cable without having the data cable connected. This will make the unit turn on. Once it’s on, the battery can be connected and once it is connected, the data cable can be connected. Otherwise, the unit will turn off almost immediately, maybe because it doesn’t have enough power to be kept on, which is why the battery needs to be connected.
I wonder if Hidizs will release an updated version (maybe a Hidizs DH2000?) which fixes this battery defect which some users have been facing. It’s just a matter of time to see what amplifier they do next, as this one sounds very good and I enjoy the sound. It’s unfortunate that it has such a battery problem. Anyway, I’ll keep using this product, again, because I enjoy the sound 🙂
Hope you enjoyed the photos and if you did, don’t forget to follow me on Instagram!
Today, I’d like to show you some photos of the Hidizs AP80. I really enjoy this Digital Audio Player since it produces a very good sound and it’s perfect for offline playback. Also, the FM radio sometimes comes in handy to listen to local stations.
Here’s some pictures of it:
Here’s the AP80 connected to the Google USB-C to 3.5mm dongle. It works straight out of the box. Simply connect it and enjoy the music. It also allows you to control the AP80 by using the headset buttons:
Today, I’d like to show you the Genki Bluetooth Adapter specifically made for the Nintendo Switch. This was a Kickstarter Project that ran successfully. The Genki Bluetooth adapter is basically a USB-C Audio Device that converts the audio signal into Bluetooth and transmits it to your favorite headphones or Bluetooth receivers. Given that this is basically a USB-C adapter, this means that it is also compatible with PC’s and certain Android devices supporting USB-C audio devices.
Since the Nintendo Switch doesn’t currently allow the connection of Bluetooth audio devices, this comes very handy, as the latest Switch firmware adds support for USB Audio Devices. This adapter does its magic because it has a chip that converts the audio that the Switch transmits to this device into Bluetooth and therefore enables you to use your Bluetooth devices with your switch. It also has the benefit of using Qualcomm’s aptX and aptX Low Latency codecs, the latter which is a most to play without any noticeable audio lag. It also supports the AAC codec and of course, the standard SBC codec.
As to why you’d like to use this device on your Android phone or PC, there are several reasons. The first is that all of the pairings is done on the device, which means you don’t have to play with your phone or PC bluetooth settings, and the second reason is the inclusion of the aptX Low Latency codec, which, if you have an aptX Low Latency receiving device, you’ll be able to game or watch a video without any lip-sync or gaming audio issues.
I, as a backer of interesting products, backed this device and I’ll be showing this to you. Let’s start!
The first thing you’ll notice is how it comes packaged. It looks like if it’s a Nintendo Switch game:
You can see more details of the Genki on the back of the case:
Opening it has a familiar look to a real game case, but of course, the right side is adapted to hold the adapter along with the accessories:
On the left, you see the instructions of how to use this little device:
On the right, it’s the adapter and the accessories, similar to how you’ll find a Nintendo Switch game cart on this side:
The Genki adapter is very small, as you can see here:
It also comes with this Microphone to use it on compatible games:
And of course, you’re most interested in seeing this connected to the Nintendo Switch, so here it is!
And if you want to use the adapter in a PC, you’ll need a USB-A to USB-C adapter, and it would look like this:
Finally, Windows will recognize this as an Audio device, as you can see:
Now you can enjoy wireless audio with your USB-C devices, especially on your Switch!
Hope you enjoyed the photos!
Crash Bandicoot – N. Sane Trilogy for Nintendo Switch
Today, I’m showing one of the games I own. It’s Crash Bandicoot – N. Sane Trilogy for the Nintendo Switch. Interestingly, Amazon for some reason sent me the European version as you can see the PEGI logo. More interesting is that the game was sold from a U.S. warehouse by Amazon itself. I have no idea why this happened but hey, the Nintendo Switch is region free! Meaning I can play the game in my system.
So here’s the case of the game:
And the back:
When we open the case, it doesn’t have any background and we can see the game cart:
A closer look to the game cart:
I also got the game guide. I like to read these and it can be of great help sometimes, especially when it comes to unlocking stuff in the game:
Today, I want to show you the ProPoint Mouse from SwiftPoint. This was a Kickstarter campaign that ran a few months ago. Last week, I got the mouse which is what you’ll be seeing today along with its accessories.
This is the Travel Set, which is the reward I got for pledging to their project:
Let’s take a look at the sides:
When we open the box, we can see 2 more boxes. One contains the Mouse while the other contains the Travel Charger:
Let’s start with the mouse. This is the box:
And let’s see the box sides:
When we open the mouse box, we can see the carrying case:
Below it, we can find the Quick Start Guide:
And finally, we have the warranty information as well:
Let’s take a closer look at the carrying case:
Let’s now open it:
We can see the mouse, the USB dongle ,as well as other accessories:
Here’s the mouse taken out of the case:
The USB dongle which is also the mouse charger:
The USB-C to USB-A adapter that allows us to use the USB dongle in USB-C devices or ports:
The Parking Spot:
Lastly, it came with this accessory:
The Travel Adapter
Now, let’s take a look at the Travel Adapter. Here’s the box:
The box sides:
It’s time to open the box:
We can see the Travel Adapter. Let’s take it out:
And finally, the back:
You can see it has different configuration for different sockets. It also has 2 USB outputs. The front serves as a passthrough to connect another device while using the adapter USB’s port and it also serves as a surge protector.
More ProPoint mouse pictures:
I use this mouse at work and at home, and it’s very comfortable and allows me to improve my productivity. Here’s more pictures of the mouse:
Here, you can notice how tiny it is:
Finally, here’s a picture when it’s in the charging dongle. It’s very nice having this feature in the same USB dongle as you can keep it connected to your PC and charge the mouse, to then be able to continue using it:
An that’s it! I hope you enjoyed the photos in this post. Have you received your ProPoint mouse from Kickstarter? Do you plan on getting one? Let me know in the comments.
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